From the team behind Air’s Champagne Parlor comes this SoHo hit where fashionable diners scooch into cozy, purple banquettes. The atmosphere is electric but easy-going servers keep their cool, ever personable and attentive. Rows of Spanish turbot dangling in a dry-aging locker at the front signal ambition in the kitchen. Pulling inspiration from all over, the cooking can be a touch erratic, but there’s joy to be found in the brioche popover with black garlic butter or the crispy rice with eggplant puree and glazed maitake mushrooms. Dry-aged fish is an obvious order as well. There’s also no shortage of wine: The team has curated a dreamy, thoughtful selection that deserves extra attention.
