A stage for live music and a long, backlit bar do not usually signal serious cooking, but this moody and groovy Coral Way restaurant is the rare exception. Candlelight bounces off the tables in a room painted entirely black, as Chef Michael Beltran again expands his already-significant footprint across the city. His penchant for creative, bold flavors and his refusal to cut corners serve him well. For that matter, the menu does not fit into a tidy box: Croutons in the Caesar are filled with a mousse of anchovies. Agnolotti are handmade, packed with a clever venison bolognese. Wide as a dinner plate, the chicken schnitzel gets dolled up with salsa verde, a fried egg, and boquerones. There are no limits to what you’ll find or how long you’ll stay.
