Walrus Rodeo

With no proper stove or gas oven on site, the team behind Boia De in Buena Vista brings wood-fire cooking to this rambunctious corner spot just a few doors down. And in an unexpected turn, it’s vegetables, not meat, that seem to get top billing on this finely honed menu. Carrot tartare with carrot top salsa or schmaltz-roasted maitake mushrooms with heirloom beans exemplify delicious sophistication. Even the lamb ragù lasagna is a light-hearted, garden marvel: The pasta sheets are made from mustard greens. There is, of course, some meat, as well as pizza, but it’s the charred quail which recalls the best of backyard barbecues. All of it is very easy to take in and enjoy in a casual space that welcomes families and couples alike.