Cozobi Fonda Fina

Named after the Zapotec god of corn, it’s only fitting that Chef Johnny Curiel’s second venture should be a celebration of maize in its many guises. Corn is flown in from Mexico and nixtamalized in house before being transformed into a variety of preparations, from tender tortillas to lightly fried quesadillas, matched with the likes with juicy cochinita pibil made from pork collar, or tender oyster mushroom, poblano rajas and queso fresco. A hickory-fired hearth adds another dimension to the cooking, whether in lively salsas or gently warmed scallops. A handsome bar provides an assortment of enticing cocktails, and even here the central theme makes an appearance, with a singularly delicious margarita featuring elote mezcal and corn liqueur.